Tuesday, May 22, 2007

wedding fun

oopsy do, worst blogger ever. hope all my loyal readers haven't given up on me (i've got at least two or three, right??)

um, things have been going really well. marrakech was god awfuly-hot last week, like i was afraid to leave the house after 11 am... but now we're being rewarded with some spring showers. i love stuff like that.

rachel and i went to a wedding in the country the weekend before last. pretty sweet... we were invited through some girls she knows through her research- fatima zorrah and amal. these girls live in the country by our standards, and the wedding was at their country cousin's farm. preeeety out there. i wouldn't say it was even in a village, we were like 6k from any sort of center.

the farm was beautiful and the family was warm and welcoming. we pretty much spent the whole weekend with the women, which was fine by me because from what i could tell they were way more fun. i was actually quite taken aback by them, these were some baaaad ass ladies; i think even the elderly gradmother could have thrown me across the room. and they did all the work for the ceremony- which included baking cake upon cake, degutting sheep, preparing tubs full of chickens, and making mystery concoctions which somehow turned into a feast. oh, and making sure that the men always had enough tea to drink as they layed around looking bored and boring. rachel and i were sometimes given small tasks, like peeling garlic or moving chairs, which were overly-praised, sort of like we were handicapped or five years old. it was pretty cute.

on the second night we went to the bride's village for the party there. so rachel and i along with about 15 other women and a live sheep piled into the back of a pick-up truck for the journey. and it was rachel's job to sit like on the sheep, haha. the ride was great- it was a total party mobile! everyone was singing and drumming the whole way- sometimes we would pass people who would always stop and cheer.

the party itself was pretty fun. lots of food and dancing. luckily the kaftans we were wearing were roomy enough that they hid our far inferior hip-shaking skills. the whole affair lasted until about 4 am, but rachel and i fell asleep in the kiddie room at like 1, which seemed very appropriate... the truck ride home is such a sleepy blur that i'm still not totally convinced it happened.

you get the idea, it was three days of this. we returned to marrakech happily exhausted and ready for urban luxories like a warm shower and vegeterian food.

Sunday, May 6, 2007

mmmm brownies

fyi brownies in the public oven are totally do-able (the cookies were out cause theres no brown sugar here...).

the men at the oven were very amused by the gooey mess that i was so excited about... i got a bit defensive, like i didn't think they believed me when i said chocolaty brownies were one of life's finer pleasures. soooo, i felt i needed to go back and prove it to them. i brought them a brownie and in my mood of sharing brought one to my favorite kiosk man and my favorite woodworking man. well appreciated all around. i sat with hakin, the woodworking man, and drank tea while he ate his brownie. hakin always gives me health advice, and he said that he thought the brownie was full of vitamins and thus fully approved. i think he may have confused vitamins with calories. ah well.

what tasty treat should i introduce to the derb el hammam neighborhood next??

Friday, May 4, 2007

keeps things interesting

so. i think i've discovered why i love the marrakesh medina so much. it is a city that will always and forever keep you on your toes. not just in the typical bustling streets sneaky theives sort of a way (though it has both of those as well). but no, the medina keeps you alert in that it is an ever-changing maze. once you think you know even like a small fraction of it, something will change or you will discover some new layer that you never knew existed. like closed doors in the neighborhood will open one day and suddenly there is a new cobbler or blacksmith. was he always hiding there behind the closed doors? or what was in that room like, a week ago? shops open and close depending on the time of day, day of the week, shop owner's mood. who knows.

for this reason routines and patterns are very difficult to form- for example i had gotten in the habit of eating bissarah (yummy fava bean soup) in the morning from our neighborhood bisarrah man, mahamood. then one morning mahamood's doors were closed. rachel saw him later and he explained that now he only made bisarrah when the mood struck him. so now sometimes he's there. sometimes he can't be bothered with cooking in the morning. fair enough. so yeah, routines are out. but with routines come ruts, am i right?

sometimes small tasks can turn into adventures. like just the other day i was on my way out to buy vegetables for lunch. i was headed to the souq (market) where i always went- a nice souq not far away that always has pretty good stuff. but, on my way out stopped to talk with the woodworker across the street, hakin (my number 1 favorite neighbor). he's always full of advice, and this day steered me in the direction of a different market that he said was much better. soooo, i followed his directions- down some twisty streets and through a couple of small alleys and within like 10 minutes emerged in this totally nutty market scene. probably like 3 times as big as the one i usually go to, and with all the bustling madness you could ever want from a vegetable market. there was a sense of urgency, like if you didn't buy your vegetables they were all going to run out or something, people pushing, lots of haggling and arguing, men yelling out prices auction style, special items such as cow hooves and sheep brains... all in all i loved it. got a little caught up with the scene and bought enough vegetables to feed like a family of 10. ah well.

k, think i'm going to go cook some of those vegetable now. i have like 2 lbs of green beans i don't know what to do with. any advice?